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GETTING STARTED in an STi: New and Prospective Owner's FAQ and Purchase Advice

This thread text will contain a list of FAQs and tips/ tricks useful to any new or perspective buyer of a WRX STi. Current owners, PLEASE feel free to post some tricks, tips, or experiences you feel relevant below. Eventually, I will gather together materials for a /WRXSTi wiki. I will be adding information to this thread as I can.
All,
We get a lot of potential buyers and posts asking questions such as "how does this look" and "what should I be looking for?" To limit the impact of these questions that do not pertain to the majority of owners, we will be directing all such inquiries to this stickied thread. As such, all questions or inquiries of new and perspective owners will only be allowed here, versus top-level of this forum. To some, this may seem less than ideal, however information on these cars is PLENTIFUL, almost everything has been said or done before and video'd up twice for every year and model of the STi. A quick and basic Google search will likely reveal all you could hope to know about any problem, as such I highly recommend you start there.
WRX vs STi
  • First things first- GO TEST BOTH YOURSELF. There is nothing anyone could say here that would override the actual experience of driving these two cars. While very similar, they are indeed quite different. There are many threads and posts and videos about this, not all created equal, but here's a link to a comment that I think does a very good and objective job comparing the two that isn't also something I am typing.- credit and thanks to hahuang65.
  • One of the biggest points I would make here is if you at one point in your head wanted an STi, there's really not a lot that will replace it. It is very common for such folks to buy a WRX, enjoy it for a year, then switch right into an STI.
  • Power.... Yes, the STi makes a small amount of power over the WRX, though this is not a reason I think to get the STi. Yes, the WRX can have a few modest mods thrown on to surpass the stock powe torque of the STi- but this does only a very small part of what separates these two cars.
  • NO, you cannot "make your WRX into an STi." In short, to make the WRX into an STi, you would effectively have to throw another WRX in cost at it as you would need to effectively lift the body off the WRX and drop it onto the drive and powertrain of an STi.
STi over WRX:
  • If tracking your car, even occasionally, is something you plan on doing the STi stands head-and-shoulders over the WRX.
  • Bulletproof and amazing transmission. The WRX tranny will not like more than 330~ hp/ tq. The "6MT" of the STi is used by many drag racing teams pushing 800-1000hp.
  • Rigid chasis/ suspension- the car feels "tighter" and more "in tune" with the road on the whole. While this may make the drive a bit more bumpy, you feel the road significantly better. Particularly if you get one with hydraulic steering.
  • The STi is tougher to drive well, but as a result is a much more rewarding experience.
  • Everything you could want to do to this platform has likely already been done, at least thrice, with videos and online guides to boot. This is slightly less of a factor now that the FA20DIT has been out for a while but still, these are some of the most worked on cars out here.
What to look for in buying a USED STi
User ALIN of IgotaSTi.com's "Checklist of What to look for in buying a used STi"
  • look for ANY modifications to the engine bay, presence of such is an immediate warning sign (you should know what the stock engine bay of your desired model looks like before going to buy)
  • know what "piston slap" and "knock" are and sound like
  • look for detailed maintenance records and all major services
  • get a compression check from YOUR trusted mechanic
  • 90,000+ miles you NEED a new timing belt and past 120K you will NEED new head gaskets

New Owners FAQ and Advice

OIL
This is perhaps the most important part of ownership, and one of the most common questions and topics especially for new owners. Before I dive into words, some quick points:
  • Check your oil every 1000 miles. The average EJ257 eats a little oil every 1K, best to keep a spare thing of oil handy.
  • Change your oil every 3000-5000 miles. You will need approx. 5 to 5.5L for a full change.
  • Use OEM Subaru Oil Filters- the blue ones. You can get these on Amazon.
  • Remember to change your oil-plug crush washer! The beveled side towards the oil pan.
  • 5w30 OEM Subaru oil works great, my 2016 loves it and runs great on it.
  • 5w40 Oil is also very common to run in these cars. The most popular two brands would be Motul Xcess 8100 and Shell Rotella 5w40 (yes, the 'diesel truck' one').
  • DO NOT USE MOBILE ONE OIL. For whatever reason, these engines do not like this oil. Perhaps it is too thin.
These cars are extremely sensitive to oil-related issues. Running your car on too little oil, or going too long between changes and checking, is the fastlane to a bricked motor. An Air-Oil Separator is highly recommended, see your mechanic for best recommendations. BrenTuning has recommended to me the IAG Competition AOS.
A new oil pickup and baffle plate is also highly recommended. Killer B offers excellent products as well as larger oil pans. The oil pickup in Subaru engines is braised together- which is just basically a shitty friction weld. When these break, your engine stops getting oil. The moment that happens, RIP.
Wheels and Tires
Wheels
New, these cars almost always come with Summe Performance tires- these WILL NOT WORK in conditions consistently below 40 degrees, and especially not on snow or ice. If you live in an area, or encounter conditions that are for more than half the day below 40F/ 3C, or consistently gets yearly ice/ snow, you NEED winter tires, or at very very least 'all seasons'.
Wheels and Tires seems daunting, but is really quite easy. You need to know Bolt Pattern, Wheel diameter, wheel width, wheel offset. Once you have these, you can then go to picking a tire. Tires are coded and these numbers are how you will pick a tire size.
Different year STis will require different wheels and tires based on lug pattern, brake size requirements, and so on, so it's very important you work specifically according to your Model Year (MY) and take into consideration any upgrades (like larger brakes).
Master Thread on NASIOC of WRX/ STi OEM wheel sizes
Most STis, especially the current models, use 5x 114.3 Bolt Pattern for the lug nuts. (Prior to 2005, they used 5x 100) The STi also requires a rather significant offset and it is very important to keep this number in-line or as close as possible to OEM. Having a massively different offset can increase wear and tear on components of the car like the differentials and AWD system (which is what makes this a particularly big issue). This is also why wheel spacers are generally a terrrible idea. Working against your cars specs can also create uneven tire wear, which is no fun when you are averaging $200/ tire.
Basics for buying a winter tire:
  • Thinner is better- this gives you higher surface pressure allowing you to cut through snow to find traction. A thinner wheel/ tire setup is frequently a good direction to go.
  • Less rim, more tire- you want a good amount of sidewall on your winter setup, as much as can be allowed in the very small space between minimum wheel diameter to cover brakes (18" on 2018+ STis) but thin enough to not scrape/ rub your sidewalls.
  • SPEED- a lot of winter tires are NOT rated for speeds above 100mph. Please pay careful attention to your winter tires speed rating! There are now "Winter Performance" tires that are aimed more at the sports-car world that give up minimal traits in winter conditions, for significant gains in terms of driving feel/ speed ability.
Good tires: Currently, Nokian and Michelin make the best winte snow tires. Nokian has the Hakkapletta R2s, and Michelin the X-ice 3s. These are both on the more expensive side, but are incredibly high quality tires. (I use Michelins and I love them, quieter than the OEM summer Dunlops). Blizzak WS70/ WS80/ WS90 are also popular due to their often cheaper price, but still offer Top-5 performance especially when it comes to deep snow.
AN EASY WAY TO CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR COMBINATION WILL WORK IS TIRERACK.COM- enter your vehicle and wheel/ tire size to find easy matches for whatever you are looking for.
EX.
For my 2016 STi, with stock brakes I chose:
  • 2006 OEM STi BBS wheels, 17"x 8", 5x114.3 bolt pattern, +53 offset.
  • Michelin X-ice3s, 255/45 R17 (I may need to double check this)
The Clutch
While slightly less so today, the STi has always been what can be described as a "Raw" feeling car. It's very mechanical, you feel apart of the machine, and you are greatly rewarded for your success as you are punished for any shortcomings. This isn't a massively difficult car to drive. It's probably smack in the middle of the road for "learning a manual sports car".
One of the tricky spots, especially for new owners, is the clutch. It's not the heaviest clutch in the world, but it has a rather high engagement point, decently long travel, and being a heavier all-wheel-drive car it takes a bit more throttle to get everything going smooth. Even in motion, particularly in lower gears (cough 2nd cough) can prove challenging to get right.
Learning the engagement point is the most important thing. Start by getting your car rolling into first without throttle repeatedly. Find a nice flat empty parking lot or side street. Take the handbrake off (and use foot brake if necessary to hold the car) Let the clutch up super slowly, eventually you will feel it start to slowly grab, where you need to intelligently monitor the take up from there to get it rolling. Don't use any throttle, if the car starts to bog or jump push in a tiny bit back, and retry. Once you've mastered getting started without throttle, you will learn the engagement point well, and be able to start working throttle back in.
The second tough spot, well frankly, is 2nd gear. 2nd gear in any manual vehicle will always be the biggest PITA to get into from first because it is the largest jump in gear ratios. Don't expect to do this well at first, and even after 30,000 miles, expect some less than smooth into-2nd shifts. There's no magic RPM or throttle amount to use, but you do need to use a tiny bit of throttle upshifting in these cars.
DCCD- Driver Controlled Center Differential
The DCCD is short for "Driver Controlled Center Differential", and is operated via the thin silver switch between your SI Drive module and center cup-holders. The biggest common misconception is that this controls where the car sends powe torque. What the DCCD actually does is controls the torque distribution bias, which is only useful on loose surfaces.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT LOCK YOUR DIFF ON DRY PAVEMENT- this can and will damage your car. Locking the Diff is only for extremely loose and low traction surfaces. IN GENERAL it is best to leave the car in "Auto", even when doing launches, the car knows what to do best. The only time to really start playing with these settings is on gravel or snow/ ice as it's the only time you will really feel much difference. Even then, many professional and semi-pro drivers leave the car in auto.
A quick tip is if you get a flat and have to use a spare, it is advisable to set the DCCD to fully "open" or rearwards.
SI Drive
The other control this car offers is called the "SI drive" and this refers to the large silver knob behind the gear shift. It has 3 modes, "Intelligent, Sport, and Sport Sharp . This simply controls the amount of throttle you are given. Nothing else.
  • Intelligent (I- press in)- "Throttle [opens] more gradually to maximize fuel efficiency, reduce emissions and deliver greater smoothness" it also comes with a little built in "shift advisor" for when it's opportune to shift for best MPG. I would describe it as "mushy throttle."
  • Sport (S- twist left)- Balance between keeping the engine in an efficient state as well as allowing access to full performance and guarantees a more even acceleration.
  • Sport Sharp (S#- twist right)- Most responsive setting, immediately opens up for direct driver input. Most STi drivers use S#, and many work a quick right-twist of the SI Drive into starting up their car.
Power and Engine Mods
General advice, don't. At least not right away. These cars are very expensive and sensitive to modifications. Assume any power-train modifications require an immediate tune and driving your car with new modifications without a tune even short distances can be extremely dangerous. Serious power-searches require expert opinion and tuning, as well as a sizeable wallet. It is strongly advised to find a recommended pro-tuner in your area, and have them guide you on your build. This ensures a platform that the people in your area are used to dealing with, and likely have many of the potential bugs figured or known. "E-tunes" are an option, and I would recommend BrenTuning based out of MA for this, but there are plenty of other just-as-good options.
General Maintenance
  • Change your oil regularly every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, and check it every two to four fill-ups. Use the OEM oil filter and oil plug gasket. 5W30 Synthetic oil, or 5W40 in some areas. These engines DO NOT like Mobile One. The OEM oil from Subaru is great, my car loves it. For 5W40, Shell Rotella or Motul XCess 8100 are two of the most common brands.
  • Whenever you are in your engine bay check ALL fluid levels, and look for any weird leaks or any foaming coming out of the oil/ radiator- this can be the sign of a serious problem.
  • Wheels depend on model, current generation STis (from 2007~ onward) use 5x114.3 bolt pattern and require at least 17" rims to clear the brakes. On 2018+ models, some 17" rims may not clear sufficiently and you will need to use 18" rims.
  • As these come standard with Summer Performance tires, you will need a set of winter tires if it is common to drop below 40 degrees at points throughout the year. Easiest path is to go to TireRack.com, enter in your car information, and it will automatically pull up suitable wheel and tire options for you. Nokian R2s and Michelin X-Ice3s are the top winter tires, however there are also performance winter tires in cases like near-Boston-me where we get lots of cold and snow, but it is mostly dealt with quickly to dry pavement.
  • The Power Steering in most STi's is a Hydraulic system. This is key to the way the car feels and drives. Hydraulic systems love to leak, and if you ever notice you are low on Power Steering, best to start looking for a leak. You can top off your power steering fluid using any high quality ATF (automatic transmission fluid) available at any auto-store.
** Quick/ Interior Upgrades**
  • There is often an annoying noise that comes from the AC compressor fan beneath the glove box in the passenger footwell. This can be remedied using a Crosstrek part/ cover panel. Here's a link to what Subispeed offers to fix this, it may be available elsewhere.
  • An Axleback exhaust/ muffler delete is a lot of fun, easy, and a great way to get a little more noise out of your car. They can be had for as little as $150~ (I got mine used for like $80) and really does help to scratch some of the "I NEED MODS NAO" itch.
The Next Level
Other useful resources include:
www.NASIOC.com (North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, largest online forum for Impreza WRX/ STi)
www.cars101.com (Outstanding resource for detailed technical information on most any modern Subaru (2012+)
www.clubwrx.com
www.IgotaSTi.com
Facebook also has a large number of WRX, STi, and related groups. These include groups for specific parts of the country/ world, specific years, specific models, and so forth.
Previous Thread
thank you to users SwitchUps, ItselfSurprised02, Fiasko2, ExtraThigg, V1scera, SockeyeSTI, ebihn14, he8c6evd8 and all other contributors great and small as this continues
submitted by dotMJEG to WRXSTi